Gingerbread Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

Face: Use Color C to embroider two French-knot eyes and a short backstitch smile. Make three French-knot buttons down the body.

The finished figure measures about 2 1/2 in (6.4 cm) tall and 2 1/4 in (5.7 cm) wide.

Strap (Make 2)

Use Color A and the 5 mm hook.

• Foundation: Ch 5.
• Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4)
• Rows 2–108: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (4)

Fasten off and leave a long tail. The strap measures 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 24 in (61.0 cm) long.

Here is how the 108 rows are used, counting up from Row 1:

• Rows 1–19: sewn to the bottom basket (4 1/4 in / 10.8 cm)
• Rows 20–27: gap between tiers (1 3/4 in / 4.4 cm)
• Rows 28–46: sewn to the middle basket
• Rows 47–54: gap between tiers
• Rows 55–73: sewn to the top basket
• Rows 74–99: drop up to the ring (5 3/4 in / 14.6 cm)
• Rows 100–108: wrapped around the ring (2 in / 5.1 cm)

Check the total: 57 + 8 + 8 + 26 + 9 = 108 rows.

Make All Pieces

• Color A: 3 baskets (body), 2 straps
• Color B: 3 basket borders, 3 appliqués
• Color C: embroidery on 3 appliqués

Layout:

Joining

1. Appliqués. Find the stitch opposite the seam column on Rnd 26. Counting the seam column as st 1, this is st 34. The front center lies halfway between them, around sts 17–18. Center the gingerbread at that point, halfway up the wall. Pin it and whipstitch around the edging with the Color B tail. Sew through the front loops only, so nothing shows inside the basket.

2. Strap positions. Strap R sits centered over the seam column (st 1). Strap L sits centered over st 34, 33 sts (8 1/4 in / 21.0 cm) away around the rim. Each strap covers about 2 sts on either side of its center line.

3. Sewing. Lay the bottom basket flat. Pin strap Row 1 level with the BLO ridge (Rnd 12) and strap Row 19 level with Rnd 26. Whipstitch both long edges with Color A, making one stitch per strap row (19 stitches per edge). These 19 rows cover the 15 wall rounds, Rnd 12 through Rnd 26, because sc rows are shorter than lemon peel rounds. Pinning both ends first spreads the difference evenly.

Rows 20–27 pass loosely over the outside of the cream border; don’t sew them to the scallops. Pin Row 28 to the middle basket’s Rnd 12 and repeat the sewing, then do the same for the top basket at Rows 55–73.

4. Ring. Fold Rows 100–108 over the ring toward the back and whipstitch the end to Row 99. Repeat with the second strap, keeping both straps side by side on the ring.

Tension: Sew firmly but don’t pull. The wall should stay flat under the strap with no puckers.

Size checkpoint: Hang the holder and measure. It should be 25 in (63.5 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket. The 1 in (2.5 cm) gap above each lower border should look the same at every tier.

Border

Border gauge: Border Rnd 1 follows the wall gauge of 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each scallop spans 3 sts, which is 3/4 in (1.9 cm). The sc round adds 1/4 in (0.6 cm) and the shells rise about 1/2 in (1.3 cm), for a total border depth of 3/4 in (1.9 cm).

Counts per side: When the basket hangs flat, the front half and back half each have 33 sts. These halves are measured between the seam column (st 1) and st 34, where the straps sit.

• Border Rnd 1: 33 sc on the front + 33 sc on the back = 66.
• Border Rnd 2: 11 scallops on each side (11 sc + 55 dc = 66 sts per side), so 132 sts and 22 scallops in total.

Why the math works: 66 divides evenly by the 3-stitch repeat, so the round ends with a complete scallop and no partial repeat at the seam. Each repeat turns 3 stitches into 6 (1 sc + 5 dc). That doubling makes the rim ripple gently instead of lying flat. Because 33 is also divisible by 3, each strap lands between scallops and the front stays symmetrical.

Final Blocking

1. Spritz each basket lightly with water, or hover a steam iron over it without touching the yarn.
2. Fill each basket with a roll or a rolled-up towel so the walls stand straight.
3. Press the BLO ridge into a crisp base edge with your fingers.
4. Ease each scallop into an even arch and pin the tips if needed.
5. Lay each appliqué flat and smooth the arms and legs outward.
6. Let everything dry completely, about 12 hours, before hanging.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• [ ] Each base measures 5 1/4 in (13.3 cm) across and lies flat.
• [ ] Each wall has 66 sts and is about 4 1/4 in (10.8 cm) tall.
• [ ] Each border has 22 complete scallops.
• [ ] Each gingerbread is centered between the straps, halfway up the wall.
• [ ] Both straps have 108 rows and measure 24 in (61.0 cm).
• [ ] All three gaps between tiers match at 1 3/4 in (4.4 cm).
• [ ] Every tail is woven in and nothing shows inside the baskets.
• [ ] The holder hangs straight at 25 in (63.5 cm).

Troubleshooting

• Base cups or ruffles: Your tension is off. Change hook size; don’t change the increases.
• The roll won’t fit: Go up one hook size and remake the basket. Check the base after Rnd 11.
• The texture looks like plain stripes: You’ve worked sc into sc. In each round, the dc must go into the sc below.
• The scallops flare too much: Use 4 dc per shell. The count becomes 22 sc + 88 dc = 110.
• The holder hangs crooked: One strap was sewn higher than the other. Re-pin by row number.
• Gingerbread legs splay apart: Add a single tacking stitch between the legs when you sew the figure on.

Care

Hand wash in cool water, press out the moisture in a towel and reshape the baskets around a roll while they dry. Don’t tumble dry.

Final Notes

The measurements build on each other:

• The 66-stitch base sets the 16 1/2 in (41.9 cm) circumference.
• The 15 wall rounds give 4 1/4 in (10.8 cm) of height.
• The 3/4 in (1.9 cm) border brings each basket to 5 in (12.7 cm).
• The 108-row straps place the three baskets and the ring for a total length of 25 in (63.5 cm).

If your first basket hits its checkpoints, the other two will match it.

Happy crocheting!