Rows 2–18: Ch 2 (doesn’t count), turn, hdc3L in each st across. (35)
Checkpoint: 10 in (25.4 cm) wide, 6 in (15.2 cm) tall.
Tier 2
Row 19: Ch 2, turn, hdc3L in the next 28 sts. Leave the last 7 sts unworked. (28)
Rows 20–36: Ch 2, turn, hdc3L in each st across. (28)
Checkpoint: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide, 12 in (30.5 cm) total height.
Tier 3
Row 37: Ch 2, turn, hdc3L in the next 21 sts. Leave the last 7 sts unworked. (21)
Rows 38–54: Ch 2, turn, hdc3L in each st across. (21) Don’t fasten off.
Each tier has an even number of rows (18), so Rows 19 and 37 both start at the same edge. That puts both steps on the same side. Turn the panel so the steps are on the left. This is your front.
Make All Pieces
- Peach: 1 back panel (with border and 2 loops added later)
- Raspberry: 3 pockets
Layout, top of the panel at the top of the grid. Each cell is one tier, 2 in (5.1 cm) per column:
P1, P2 and P3 are the pockets. Each one moves 7 sts (2 in / 5.1 cm) to the right and 18 rows (6 in / 15.2 cm) up from the one below.
Border (Peach)
The border is worked in sc at 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). One panel row is 0.333 in, so you work 7 sc over every 6 row-ends.
Rnd 1: Ch 1. Turn so you’re working down the edge, and sc evenly around the panel as follows. At each of the 6 outer corners, work 3 sc in the corner st. At the 2 inner corners, work just 1 sc, with no increase.
- Row-end edges: work (sc in next 5 row-ends, 2 sc in next row-end) across
- Right edge, 54 rows: 63 sc
- Each of the 3 left-side step edges, 18 rows each: 21 sc
- Stitch edges: work 1 sc per st
- Bottom (along the foundation chain): 35 sc
- Top: 21 sc
- Each of the 2 step ledges, 7 unworked sts each: 7 sc
- Outer corners: 6 corners x 2 extra sc = 12
Total: 63 + (3 x 21) + 35 + 21 + 7 + 7 + 12 = 208 sc. Sl st to the first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc. Work 3 sc in the center sc of each outer corner and sc2tog across each inner corner. Join. 208 sts worked once each + 12 corner increases − 2 inner-corner decreases = 218 sc.
Why the math works: 3.5 sc per inch matches every edge exactly.
– 18 in x 3.5 = 63
– 6 in x 3.5 = 21
– 10 in x 3.5 = 35
– 2 in x 3.5 = 7
So the edges stay flat, with no ruffling or cupping. The two rounds add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) to every edge. That brings the panel to 11 in (27.9 cm) x 19 in (48.3 cm), with tier widths of 11 in (27.9 cm), 9 in (22.9 cm) and 7 in (17.8 cm).
Hanging loops (make 2): Count 3 sc in from the top-left corner’s center sc and join peach in that st. Ch 26, then sl st in the same st to make a loop. Work 32 sc into the loop, sl st to the base, and fasten off. Repeat 3 sc in from the top-right corner. Each loop stands about 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
Joining the Pockets
Method: whipstitch with the raspberry tail, sewing through both layers.
Placement: these positions use the panel rows and stitches. Count stitches from each tier’s left edge.
– P1: base seam along Row 3, back spanning sts 3–18 of Tier 1
– P2: base seam along Row 21, back spanning sts 3–18 of Tier 2
– P3: base seam along Row 39, back spanning sts 3–18 of Tier 3
Stitch-to-stitch logic: flatten one pocket. Mark 17 consecutive front loops on the Rnd 10 ridge (one third of 51) as the back. Place markers in the rim directly above the first and last of those loops.
The 17 pocket sts measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm) at waffle gauge. That’s the same width as 16 panel sts (4.6 in / 11.7 cm), so whipstitch one pocket loop to each panel st and catch 2 pocket loops in the center panel st once.
Next, sew up both marked side columns. Match 1 pocket round to about 2 panel rows, and pin at the base, the midpoint and the rim before you sew.
Tension: pull each stitch until it’s snug but not puckered. The panel should stay flat behind the pocket.
Size checkpoint: each pocket’s back should measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall on the panel. Weave in all ends.
Final Blocking
- Lay the panel face down on the blocking mat.
- Pin it to 11 in (27.9 cm) x 19 in (48.3 cm). Check that all 3 tiers are 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall, measured from the bottom edge of the border or ledge.
- Pin each step corner square.
- Mist the panel until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Put a roll in each pocket so the pockets dry round.
- Let everything dry completely, 12–24 hours.
- Unpin and hang the holder to check that it hangs straight.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Panel measures 11 in (27.9 cm) x 19 in (48.3 cm)
- [ ] Both steps are on the left, each 2 in (5.1 cm) deep before the border
- [ ] Border counts were 208 and 218 sc
- [ ] Each pocket has 51 sts and a 17-column waffle grid
- [ ] All 3 pockets are 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- [ ] Pockets sit on an even diagonal, 7 sts apart
- [ ] Loops are the same length and firmly anchored
- [ ] All ends are woven in securely
Troubleshooting
Steps are on opposite sides: a tier has an odd number of rows. Each tier needs exactly 18 rows.
Border ruffles: you’re working too many sc along the row-ends. Use exactly 7 sc per 6 rows.
Border cups in at the corners: you missed the 3-sc corners. Recount: 6 outer corners, 2 inner corners.
Roll won’t fit: your waffle gauge is tight. Remake the pocket with a hook 0.5 mm larger.
Pocket is floppy: your waffle gauge is loose. Go down 0.5 mm, or add one more Rnd 13.
Pocket tilts: the side seams aren’t vertical. Re-pin them along a single panel stitch column.
Panel sags: the loops are too far from the corners. Move them closer to the corners and sew them on again.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping the pockets around rolls. Don’t tumble dry, because cotton can shrink and distort the waffle grid.
Final Notes
The size of this holder comes from one chain of measurements. The 14-st, 12-row panel gauge gives three tiers of 6 in (15.2 cm), stepped 2 in (5.1 cm) apart. A 2-round border of 208 and 218 sc brings the panel to 11 in (27.9 cm) x 19 in (48.3 cm). Three 51-st waffle pockets, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, sit on that panel with 17 sts sewn to 16. If each checkpoint matches, the finished holder will hang straight and hold three rolls securely.
Happy crocheting!
