Fasten off. The flap is a triangle 6.6 in (16.8 cm) across the base and 2.6 in (6.6 cm) tall. Leave it standing up for now.
Holly Leaf (make 6)
Use the 4.0 mm hook and green. Ch 8, then work into the back bumps of the chain, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook.
Side 1: Sl st, sc, hdc, picot, dc, dc, picot, hdc, sc in last ch. (7 sts plus 2 picots)
Tip: Picot.
Side 2: Rotate the leaf and work along the other side of the chain: sc, hdc, picot, dc, dc, picot, hdc, sc, sl st in last ch. (7 sts plus 2 picots)
Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. Picots do not count as stitches. The leaf is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long and has five points.
Berry (make 9)
Use the 4.0 mm hook and red.
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (6 sts)
Tuck the starting tail or a pinch of fiberfill inside.
Rnd 3:3 times. (3 sts)
Fasten off, weave the tail through the 3 sts and pull it closed. Each berry is about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) across.
Strap (make 1)
Use the 5.5 mm hook and green, and ch 7.
Row 1: HBhdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 sts)
Rows 2–30: Ch 2 (does not count), HBhdc in each st across. Turn. (5 sts each row)
Fasten off and leave a long tail. The strap is 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and 12 in (30.5 cm) long.
Make All Pieces
- Green: 3 pocket bodies, 1 strap, 6 leaves
- Cream: 3 rims and 3 flaps (you work the borders later)
- Red: 9 berries
Layout, from top to bottom:
Line up the pockets so that every flap faces forward and every start-of-round seam sits on the same side.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with green and a tapestry needle.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: You join the back sts 28–54 of Pocket C’s Rnd 20 (27 sts) to the free front loops of sts 28–54 on Pocket B’s Rnd 9 (27 sts). That is 27 to 27, with no easing.
- Set Pocket B on top of Pocket C. Both flaps face you and the side seams line up.
- Whipstitch through the back loop only of each of Pocket C’s Rnd 20 back sts and the matching free front loop of Pocket B’s Rnd 9, for 27 stitches.
- Repeat to join Pocket A on top of Pocket B.
On the back half, the front loops of Rnd 20 stay free for the border.
Tension: Pull each stitch just snug so the seam lies flat without puckering. Use only one pass so the joint can still hinge. To load a roll, tip the upper pocket forward.
Strap: Thread the strap through the ring and center it. Sew one end inside Pocket A against back sts 29–33 and the other end against back sts 50–54. Each end overlaps the pocket by 1 in (2.5 cm) below the rim.
Checkpoint: The column is 13.2 in (33.5 cm) tall (3 x 4.4 in / 11.2 cm) and 7.7 in (19.6 cm) wide.
Border
The braided cream edge runs around the rim and along both slanted edges of the flap. Work one border on each pocket with the 5.5 mm hook. Border gauge: 17 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Rnd 1: With RS facing and the flap standing up, join cream in st 1 of Rnd 20.
- Front left: Ch 1, sc in sts 1–2. (2 sc)
- Flap edge 1: 3 sc in each row end of Rows 1–6. (18 sc)
- Tip: 3 sc in the Row 7 st. (3 sc)
- Flap edge 2: 3 sc in each row end of Rows 6–1. (18 sc)
- Front right: Sc in sts 26–27. (2 sc)
- Back: Sc in FLO of sts 28–54. (27 sc)
- Sl st to first sc. (70 sts: 2 + 18 + 3 + 18 + 2 + 27)
Rnd 2: Sl st in BLO of each sc around. (70 sl sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: On each flap edge, a row steps in 2 sts (0.57 in / 1.4 cm) and rises 0.4 in (1.0 cm). That makes each row’s slanted edge about 0.7 in (1.8 cm) long, so six rows measure 4.2 in (10.7 cm). At 17 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm), 18 sc also measure 4.2 in (10.7 cm), so the edge lies flat. On the rim, you work 1 sc per free stitch (2 + 2 + 27 = 31). The remaining 23 rim stitches sit under the flap base, which brings the total back to 54.
Fold and add the holly: Fold each flap down over the front so the tip points toward the base. Tack the tip and both lower corners in place with cream. Set 2 leaves in a shallow V just above the tip, with the stems meeting at the center, and sew each leaf down along its center vein. Sew 3 berries in a cluster where the stems meet.
Final Blocking
- Slip each pocket over a toilet roll or a jar 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
- Mist lightly with water. Do not soak.
- Ease each pocket to a 7.7 in (19.6 cm) flat width and 4.4 in (11.2 cm) depth.
- Pin the flaps flat, smooth the borders and lay the strap straight.
- Let everything dry completely, then hang the holder.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each pocket has 54 sts and is 4.4 in (11.2 cm) deep
- [ ] Each flap sits over sts 3–25, with 2 sts free on each side
- [ ] Each border has 70 sts
- [ ] Each joint has 27 stitch-to-stitch whipstitches
- [ ] The column is 13.2 in (33.5 cm) tall
- [ ] The strap ends are secure and the ring is centered
- [ ] All ends are woven in on the inside
Troubleshooting
The roll won’t fit. Your gauge is tight. Remake the pocket with a hook a half size larger.
The base cups or ruffles. If it cups, go up a hook size for the base only. If it ruffles, go down a size.
The round seam spirals. HBhdc tends to lean. Keep each ch 2 directly above the one before it, and move your markers every round.
The flap edges wave. Work 5 sc per 2 rows instead of 3 sc per row.
The pockets sag forward. Add a second line of whipstitches across the center 9 back sts.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel and lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, because the berries and flaps can lose their shape.
Final Notes
Each measurement builds on the one before. A gauge of 14 HBhdc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives 54 sts = 15.4 in (39.1 cm) around, or 7.7 in (19.6 cm) flat. Eleven HBhdc rounds make a 4.4 in (11.2 cm) pocket, and a 23-st flap makes a 2.6 in (6.6 cm) point. Three joined pockets form a 13.2 in (33.5 cm) column, and the strap brings the holder to about 17.7 in (45.0 cm).
Happy crocheting!
