Pocket checkpoint: The pocket should measure about 8.5 in (21.6 cm) at the widest point and 6.5 in (16.5 cm) from the corners to the bottom. The two corners sit about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) apart.
Backing (Make 1)
The backing is a long oval worked in joined rounds around a foundation chain. Each round adds 3 sts at each end. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc. Ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Work the first stitch of every round into the same stitch as the join.
Rnd 1: With MC, ch 63. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 60 ch, then 3 sc in the last ch. Working along the free loops on the other side of the chain, sc in the next 60 ch, then 2 sc in the last ch (the same ch as the first sc). Join. (126: 60 per long side, 3 per end)
In the rounds below, “Inc group” means: sc in the next (round number minus 2) sts, then 2 sc in the next st.
Rnd 2:Ch 1, 2 sc in the same st, sc in the next 60 sts, 3 times, sc in the next 60 sts, 2 times. Join. (132)
Rnds 3–10: Ch 1, Inc group once, sc in the next 60 sts, Inc group 3 times, sc in the next 60 sts, Inc group 2 times. Join. Each end has 3 times the round number in stitches, and each long side stays at 60.
Stitch counts: Rnd 3 (138), Rnd 4 (144), Rnd 5 (150), Rnd 6 (156), Rnd 7 (162), Rnd 8 (168), Rnd 9 (174), Rnd 10 (180: 60 per long side, 30 per end).
Fasten off. Choose one end as the top and mark it.
Strap (Make 1)
Row 1: With CC, ch 41. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (40)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (40) Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
The strap measures 10 x 0.5 in (25.4 x 1.3 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Sage green: 1 backing, 3 pockets
- Cream: edging and veins on all 3 pockets, 1 strap, and the backing border (worked after joining)
Layout (top to bottom):
Joining
Lay the backing RS up. Measure from the top edge of Rnd 10.
- Pin both corners of Pocket 1 to Rnd 9 at the side edges, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) below the top. Rnd 10 stays free for the border.
- Pin the bottom center of the pocket’s curved edge on the center line, 5.5 in (14.0 cm) below the corner line.
- Pin the curved edge in a U shape. Run it down each side along Rnd 9 for about 3 in (7.6 cm), then curve it across to the bottom pin.
- Repeat for Pocket 2 (corners at 7.5 in / 19.1 cm) and Pocket 3 (corners at 13.5 in / 34.3 cm). Each pocket’s bottom should nest just above the V of the pocket below.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: On each pocket, the curved side of edging Rnd 1 has 66 sts: the 62 sts along the curve plus the outer and center st of each corner. The U-shaped path on the backing covers about 54 to 56 backing sts. The pocket is about 7 in (17.8 cm) wide at the corners but the backing is only 5 in (12.7 cm) wide, and that extra width is what makes room for the roll.
With CC and a tapestry needle, whipstitch through the back loop of each pocket edging st and one strand of the backing st below it. Sew 1 extra pocket st about every 5 backing sts to take up the ease.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug, but don’t pucker the backing. Check that the backing still lies flat after each pocket.
Checkpoint: The backing should still measure 5 x 20 in (12.7 x 50.8 cm). If it has shrunk, your seams are too tight.
Border
The border is worked around the backing only. The pockets are sewn onto the surface at Rnd 9, so they don’t add any stitches to the edge. The border starts on the 180 sts of Rnd 10.
Border gauge: 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm). One scallop uses 4 sts and covers 1 in (2.5 cm).
Rnd 11 (conversion round):Join CC in the first st of Rnd 10. Ch 1, 2 times, sc in the next 60 sts, 6 times, sc in the next 60 sts, 4 times. Join. The count is 180 sts worked once each, plus 12 added, for 192. That’s 60 per long side and 36 per end.
Rnd 12 (scallops): Ch 1, sc in the same st, sk 1, shell in next st, sk 1, sc in next st. Repeat from * to * around. On the last repeat, leave out the final sc and join to the first sc instead. (48 scallops: 15 per long side, 9 per end) Fasten off.
Why the math works: Rnd 10 has 60 sts on each side and 30 on each end. Adding 6 per end brings the ends to 36, so every segment is a multiple of 4: 60 / 4 = 15 and 36 / 4 = 9. The first end is split 12 + 24, which also divides by 4, so no scallop is cut off at the start of the round. The extra stitches also give the curved ends enough slack to lie flat.
Strap: Sew the strap ends to the WS of the top end, 1 in (2.5 cm) below the edge and 4 in (10.2 cm) apart. The loop peaks about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the top.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the WS.
- Lay the holder flat on the blocking mat, RS up.
- Pin the backing to 6 x 21 in (15.2 x 53.3 cm).
- Pin each scallop tip so it sits out evenly.
- Mist the whole piece until it’s damp. Don’t soak it.
- Smooth the veins with your fingers so they lie straight.
- Put a dry roll in each pocket to shape it as it dries.
- Leave it to dry completely, then unpin.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Backing measures 6 x 21 in (15.2 x 53.3 cm)
- Rnd 10 has 180 sts, Rnd 11 has 192, and Rnd 12 has 48 scallops
- Each pocket has 64 sts in Row 16 and 97 in edging Rnd 1
- 8 top scallops per pocket, with an sc at the V point
- 1 center vein and 3 mirrored side veins on each side of every pocket
- Pocket corners at 1.5, 7.5 and 13.5 in (3.8, 19.1 and 34.3 cm)
- Strap is centered and firmly sewn
- No loose ends on the RS
Troubleshooting
- Pocket ruffles: You have too many sts. Recount Row 16 (64).
- Pocket cups instead of lying flat: You missed an increase. Check that each row adds 4.
- Backing ends curl: Your increases are too tight. Go up a hook size for the end sections only.
- V point gapes: Pull the magic ring tighter and redo the sc2tog.
- Veins pucker: Your surface slip stitches are too tight. Work them more loosely or use a larger hook.
- Rolls sit too low: The pocket bottom is pinned too low. Raise it 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
- Holder tilts: The strap ends aren’t the same distance from center.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Reshape the pockets with rolls while they dry.
Final Notes
Everything builds on one gauge: 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm). Sixteen rows give a pocket with a 4 in (10.2 cm) radius. Ten rounds give a 5 x 20 in (12.7 x 50.8 cm) backing. The pockets are spaced so their corners sit 6 in (15.2 cm) apart, and the 0.5 in (1.3 cm) border brings the backing to 6 x 21 in (15.2 x 53.3 cm). Check each stage as you go, and the finished holder will hang straight and hold all three rolls.
Happy crocheting!
