Rnd 15: Rep Rnd 13. (36 stars = 72 sts)
Rnd 16 (decrease): Ch 2, 2 hdc in each of next 8 eyes, 1 hdc in next eye; rep from * 3 more times. Join. (68)*
Rnd 17: Star round. (34 stars = 68 sts)
Rnd 18 (decrease): Ch 2, 2 hdc in each of next 7 eyes, 1 hdc in next eye, 2 hdc in each of next 8 eyes, 1 hdc in next eye; rep from * once more. Join. (64)*
Rnd 19: Star round. (32 stars = 64 sts)
Rnd 20: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each eye around. Join. (64)
Fasten off yellow. Going from 72 sts to 64 sts makes the gentle taper: about 18 in (45.7 cm) around at the base and 16 in (40.6 cm) at the top.
Blue Eyelet Band and Rim
Rnd 21: Join blue at back center. Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (64)
Rnd 22 (eyelets): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip next st, dc in next st, ch 2, skip next st; rep from * around. Join to 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. (32 dc + 32 ch-2 sps)* Working ch 2 over a single skipped st makes the eyelets puff into round holes.
Rnd 23 (rim): Ch 1, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around. Join. (32 sc in dc + 32 sc in sps = 64)* Fasten off.
Cords
Number the Rnd 23 sts 1 to 64, starting at the join. Sts 64 and 1 sit at back center. Mark st 13 and st 53. Each marked st is 12 sts from back center.
Make 2 cords, one at each marked st:
Leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Ch 16, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (15 sl st). Sl st in the marked rim st and fasten off. Each cord is about 3 in (7.6 cm) long. Keep the long tail at the free tip for sewing.
Make All Pieces
- Bar: 1 (yellow Rnds 1–2)
- Pockets: 3 (yellow base and body, blue bands, 2 cords each)
Layout, front view:
Weave in all ends on the pockets except the cord tails.
Joining
Mark the bar. Along the top edge of Rnd 2, count the 68 side sts. Place markers in st 10, st 34, and st 58. The markers are 24 sts, or 6 in (15.2 cm), apart.
Sew the back rims. Turn the bar wrong side up. Center one pocket’s back below a marker. Using blue, whipstitch Rnd 23 sts 59–64 and 1–6 (12 sts) to the wrong side of the bar, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the bottom edge. Sew 1 rim st to 1 bar st, which covers 12 bar sts or 3 in (7.6 cm). Catch only the back bumps so nothing shows on the front.
Attach the cords. Turn the bar RS up. Bring both cords up over the front of the bar. Use the cord tails to sew both tips into the marked top-edge st. Each pocket now hangs from a V of cords.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug but don’t tighten it so much that it puckers. The bar should stay perfectly straight. If the bar curves, take out the stitches and sew again more loosely.
Size checkpoint: Lay the piece flat. The pockets touch or nearly touch, and the total width is about 18 in (45.7 cm) before the border.
Border
Work the border in blue sc, at the sc gauge of 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm). It adds 1 round, or 0.25 in (0.6 cm), on every edge.
Rnd 3 (bar border):Join blue in the first st of Rnd 2. Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 68 sts (top edge), 3 times, sc in next 68 sts (bottom edge), 2 times. Join.(154 sts: 68 per long side + 9 per end)
At each marked top-edge st, insert the hook under the cord tips and through the st, then work 1 sc as normal. This locks the cords in place and adds no sts.
Hanging loops: At each marked st on the top edge of Rnd 3 (sts 10, 34, and 58), join blue with sl st. Ch 12, sl st in the same st, then work 18 sc into the ch-12 loop and sl st in the same st. Fasten off. Each loop stands about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Why the math works: The long sides take exactly 1 sc per st, so they stay at 68 sts and 17 in (43.2 cm). The ends grow by 3 sts each round (3, 6, 9), which is 6 per full circle. That is the standard flat-circle rate for sc, so the ends don’t ruffle or cup. The pockets hang from the bar and aren’t part of the border, so no stitches are added at their seams. The finished bar is 17 in (43.2 cm) plus 0.75 in (1.9 cm) at each end, for 18.5 in x 1.5 in (47.0 cm x 3.8 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends, going through blue sts on blue sections and yellow sts on yellow sections.
- Spray the whole piece with water until it is damp but not soaking.
- Pin the bar straight on a mat at 18.5 in x 1.5 in (47.0 cm x 3.8 cm).
- Stuff each pocket with a toilet paper roll or a rolled towel so it dries in the tapered shape.
- Open each eyelet with a fingertip and smooth the rim.
- Let it dry completely, at least 12 hours, before hanging it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Bar is 18.5 in (47.0 cm) long, straight, with flat rounded ends
- Bar border count is 154 sts
- Each pocket has 72 sts at the base, 64 at the rim, and 32 open eyelets
- The 3 pockets are the same height, 5 in (12.7 cm)
- Round seams are hidden at the back
- Cord pairs are even, and the pockets hang level
- Loops are firm and 6 in (15.2 cm) apart
- All ends are woven in and secure
Troubleshooting
- Base ruffles: Your hdc rounds are too short. Go up a hook size for the base only.
- Base cups: Your rounds are too tall. Go down a hook size for the base only.
- Stars lean or slant: Pull up all 5 loops to the same height before you yo.
- Wrong star count: Check that each star uses 2 new sts and that the last star ends in the final st.
- Eyelets look like slits: Make the ch-2 a little looser.
- Pocket tilts forward: Shorten both cords by the same amount, or move the back seam slightly higher on the bar.
- Bar curves: Loosen the whipstitches, or block the bar flat again.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with the pockets stuffed into shape. Don’t wring it or tumble dry it.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain. The pocket base is 72 sts and 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across. The body tapers to 64 sts, or 16 in (40.6 cm) around, at 5 in (12.7 cm) tall. The bar’s straight edges are 68 sts, or 17 in (43.2 cm). The pockets are spaced 24 sts, or 6 in (15.2 cm), apart. The border brings the bar to 18.5 in (47.0 cm), and the whole holder hangs at about 7.25 in (18.4 cm) tall. If your gauge swatch pocket matches, everything else will line up.
Happy crocheting!
