This hanging organizer holds three spare toilet rolls in heart-shaped pockets. Each pocket front has an open filet-mesh heart in cream, outlined in a bold peach band. The pockets stand out from a long peach back panel with a cream border, and two cream straps hang it from hooks or a towel bar.
The look is soft and cottage-style. Only two colors are used: warm cream and peach. The mesh lets the roll show through, so it’s easy to see when it’s time to restock. All instructions use US crochet terms.
The finished back panel measures 7 x 29 in (17.8 x 73.7 cm). The strap loops add about 3 in (7.6 cm), for a total hanging length of about 32 in (81.3 cm). Each pocket front is about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide and 5.75 in (14.6 cm) tall at the heart lobes, and each pocket is about 2.9 in (7.4 cm) deep.
You’ll make the following pieces:
– A single-crochet back panel
– A two-round border
– Two straps worked onto the border
– Three filet pocket fronts
– Three cream strips (called gussets) that form each pocket’s sides and bottom
Each gusset is joined to its pocket front, and then the finished pocket is sewn onto the panel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 7 x 29 in (17.8 x 73.7 cm) panel; about 32 in (81.3 cm) hanging length
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 7 (1 back panel, 3 pocket fronts, 3 gussets)
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked in one vertical column
- Pocket front size: 6 x 5.5 in (15.2 x 14.0 cm) before trim
- Panel size before border: 6 x 28 in (15.2 x 71.1 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm), 2 rounds
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when loaded, survives washing, and shows the filet mesh crisply. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylic, because the pockets will sag.
- Cream: 250 g / 425 m (about 465 yd). Used for the pocket fronts, gussets, panel border, straps and sewing.
- Peach: 175 g / 298 m (about 326 yd). Used for the back panel, heart outlines and pocket trim.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– 6 locking stitch markers
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
– Spray bottle
The quantities include roughly a 15% margin for your gauge swatch and tension differences.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch definitions:
– Block: a 2-stitch filet square worked solid. When you see “dc in next st,” work a dc into the next stitch, and count a ch-1 space as a stitch.
– Mesh: a 2-stitch filet square worked open. Ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st.
– Surface slip stitch: hold the yarn behind the work, insert the hook from front to back through the fabric, and pull up a loop through the loop already on the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Single crochet: 14 sc x 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Double crochet: 14 dc x 8 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Filet: one filet square is 2 sts = about 0.57 in (1.5 cm) wide and 1 row = 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Make one pocket front before anything else. That piece tests both gauges at once.
Checkpoints:
– After Row 2 of the pocket front, the piece should be 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
– After Row 12, the pocket front should be 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall at the lobes.
– After Row 16 of the panel, the panel should be 6 x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 cm).
– After the border, the panel should be 7 x 29 in (17.8 x 73.7 cm).
If your pieces come out too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If they come out too small, go up 0.5 mm. Don’t change the stitch counts. The pocket depends on the stitch-to-row matching described below.
Back Panel (Make 1)
Use peach.
Foundation: Ch 22.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (21 sc)
Rows 2–112: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc in each st across, turn. (21 sc)
Fasten off. The panel should measure 6 x 28 in (15.2 x 71.1 cm).
Place stitch markers on the right-hand edge at the following rows. These mark where each pocket’s bottom will sit:
– Row 5 (Pocket 1)
– Row 41 (Pocket 2)
– Row 77 (Pocket 3)
Pocket Front (Make 3)
Use cream. Rows 1–2 form the solid bottom band. Rows 3–12 are the filet heart chart: Row 3 is chart row 1 and Row 12 is chart row 10. The chart is 10 squares wide.
Foundation: Ch 22.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (21 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (21 sc)
Row 3 (4 blocks, 2 mesh, 4 blocks):Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in next 8 sts, 2 times, dc in next 8 sts, turn. (21 sts)
Row 4 (3 blocks, 4 mesh, 3 blocks):Ch 3, dc in next 6 sts, 4 times, dc in next 6 sts, turn. (21 sts)
Row 5 (2 blocks, 6 mesh, 2 blocks):Ch 3, dc in next 4 sts, 6 times, dc in next 4 sts, turn. (21 sts)
Rows 6–7 (1 block, 8 mesh, 1 block):Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, 8 times, dc in next 2 sts, turn. (21 sts)
Rows 8–10 (10 mesh):Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk 1, dc in next st, 9 times, turn. (21 sts)
The solid blocks narrow by one square on each side every row. This forms the V-shaped point of the heart, with solid cream corners on either side of it.
Row 11 (first lobe, 4 mesh):Ch 4, sk 1, dc in next st, 3 times, turn. (9 sts) Leave the remaining 12 sts unworked.
Row 12 (2 mesh): Sl st in first 3 sts, ch 4, sk 1, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st. (5 sts) Leave the last 2 sts unworked. Fasten off.
Second lobe:
1. Keep the same side facing as at the start of Row 11. Skip 3 more sts of Row 10 (sts 10–12), which leaves a center dip one square deep.
2. Join cream in st 13.
3. Work Row 11 again over sts 13–21. (9 sts)
4. Work Row 12 again. (5 sts) Fasten off.
The front is now 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall at the lobes.
Heart Outline
Use peach.
1. With RS facing, start at the top of Row 10 on one side edge.
2. Work surface slip stitch down the outer dc posts of Rows 10–8.
3. Follow the staircase line where the solid blocks meet the mesh, down to the point at Row 3.
4. Work back up the other side as a mirror image, ending at the top of Row 10.
5. Work a second line of surface slip stitch directly beside the first, on the block side, to make the bold double-width outline.
Fasten off. Weave in the ends on the WS.
